Reverse Culture Shock in Guayaquil

It’s been well over a month since my last post, mostly because I was too drained from working during the mornings on the shrimp farm to have any mental energy left for updating my posts, but also because I didn’t thought it would be a waste of an experience if I spent all of my free time squinting at a laptop screen as opposed to conversing with my new entourage of male companions.  That said, I decided to write about my experiences on the shrimp farm after the fact.  So here I am at the end of May after six eventful weeks on the shrimp farm catching up on my posts.  However, since I was rather secluded from the pleasures and comforts of my usual life, such as alcohol and toilets that flush, the first order of business is assessing the extent of my reverse culture shock and of course indulging in some of my Gringa needs that can only be met with ease in a big city such as Guayaquil.

New Habits

Six weeks certainly doesn’t seem like a long time, nor did it actually feel like a long time, but after one day back in a completely different atmosphere, I’m definitely aware of the fact that I may have picked up some strange habits while staying on a rustic farm full of men.  Some of such habits are probably advantageous to the ordinary backpacker and thus I hope to keep, while others make me seriously question the type of life I’m leading.

The habits that I hope remain intact…

  • Efficient laundering – As you could imagine, clothing gets dirty a lot faster than normal when you’re working under the blazing sun and sitting in a less than fragrant pile of shrimp feed.  Even though I’ve relaxed my standards on the definition of clean clothing while traveling, I did find it necessary to do my laundry almost every day, either washing it outside in the buckets or bringing it with me in the shower.  Either way, this made for more efficient mornings with less digging into the bottom of my backpack for clean clothes.  So here’s to hoping I keep up my good laundry routine because traveling with dirty clothes in your backpack happens to be less than enjoyable.
  • Hoarding toilet paper – After an ‘unfortunate but fun for those around me’ experience in Bali, I decided that toilet paper is one of those necessities that I usually take for granted.  On the shrimp farm, the odds of having a sufficient supply of toilet paper when nature called were not exactly in my favor, so I made a habit of collecting napkins at meal times to be used later when needed.  Weird, yes, but given that I’d rather be kidnapped by drug gangs than suffer through a public gastrointestinal “event”, I’ll live with the ridicule.
  • Continuing to expect men to treat me like a princess – I’ve never thought of myself as high-maintenance but I won’t lie, I definitely enjoyed being treated like a delicate flower and showered in compliments and chocolate cookies.  I mean, from where I stand right now, I fail to see the downside of refusing to give the time of day to any man who doesn’t have cookies on his person.

The habits that give me pause…

  • Manual Toilet Flushing – Along with the less than abundant supply of toilet paper in the bathrooms or non-bathrooms, it was also a crapshoot, pun definitely intended, as to whether or not the toilet would flush by the traditional means of pushing on the handle.  In cases where it did not, I deferred to my trusty bucket to pour water until the toilet flushed manually.  This was all fine and dandy until yesterday when I noticed my arm instinctively reaching out for the bucket.
  • Siphoning Everything – As I alluded to above, the plumbing situation on the farm was not exactly automatic and as such, the flow of water required the assistance of manual changes in atmospheric pressure.  This was also the preferred method for transporting most other liquids around the farm such as the lovely tomato soup and molasses bacteria that is applied to the pools on Sundays.  So I had to siphon for water at times.  Awkward at first, especially if any of the 30 men were around to see me to do this, but after a while it became second nature.  Though I imagine, nowadays, some eyebrows would be raised in my neighborhood if my parents asked me to water the plants and I immediately started blowing into the hose.
  • Using 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner as an all-purpose cleaner – I’m actually on the fence about this one.  This habit started off on a slippery slope.  I originally switched from separate shampoo and conditioner to a 2-in-1 solution to both save money and space in my backpack.  Then, when I was moving from Puno, Perú, I didn’t feel like hauling another separate bottle of body wash so my 2-in-1 now became 3-in-1.  And why stop there?  When I started bringing my laundry into the shower with me on the shrimp farm, I figured if my shampoo could clean my body then it could also clean my clothing.  Now, I have one bottle of all-purpose cleanser for my body, hair and clothing.  This does make for a simpler life and a lighter backpack, but I’m just slightly concerned that I might take this further.

So now that I’m aware of some of my new rustic life quirks, it will be fun to see how I transition back into a world of public transportation, commerce and flushable toilets.  The first order of business though is eating all of the gringa-rific foods I’ve been craving for the last six weeks such as hamburgers, tacos, ice cream and of course, beer and wine.  After that, there is some body maintenance I will tend to which is another post in and of itself…

Categories: Customs, Ecuador, Humor, volunteering | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Gone Shrimpin’ – Getting Settled

[Sorry no photos here, the uploader isn't working for me today but the whole set is up on the facebook page]

After explaining to people that I’m volunteering on an organic shrimp farm for the next month, the obvious first question is: What does one such as yourself do on a shrimp farm?  In short, I help out with the “girl-friendly” tasks such as feeding the shrimp and testing the water quality in the lab.  Obviously, and I’m not complaining one bit about this, I’m not physically capable of doing the more labor intensive tasks such as hauling 40 kg sacks of shrimp feed across the yard.  Some days we (there are two other volunteers here now) have little lectures on how they monitor the growth of the shrimp and tend to the pools.  That’s my what my morning looks like and after lunch I usually get to pass the rest of the day as a lady of leisure going for walks around the farm and catching up on my posts.  I’ve been here for two weeks now and I’m still in awe of how beautifully simplistic life is here on the shrimp farm and quite frankly, I don’t want to leave anytime soon.

Set to Task

Day 1 it was early to rise for me at 7am for my first day of work, which for me is excruciatingly early but I’ve since seem to adjusted well.  I was greeted by Tino, a jubilant old man who was one of the first shrimpmen to inquire on the whereabouts of my husband or boyfriend.  He was then the first of a long succession of shrimpmen to express sheer confusion as to why I had neither.  Again though, that’s a story for another time.  Tino’s main purpose on this day was to accompany me out to one of the shrimp pools and explain that I would be helping Romeo with feeding the shrimp.  He also explained that Romeo is mute, but very intelligent and could read lips so I would be able to communicate with him.

I was later both grateful and fearful about his ability to read lips because upon meeting Romeo, I immediately noticed my mouth dropping to the floor.  I’m not going to try and conceal this thought with ambiguous statements or by selectively choosing which facts to report.  Romeo is hot, hot in such a way that I was having those Ally McBeal hallucinations where one’s clothes start to fall off.  I assumed nobody noticed me creepily staring at Romeo since I was already sitting in the canoe with the shrimp feed by the time I snapped back to reality.  So there I was my first day on the farm in a canoe scooping shrimp feed into nets while being paddled around by a hot mute.  Clearly, I was being reassured once again that I had in fact made the right decision in quitting my job to lead a non-traditional life.

Day 2 was a little less visually exciting for me but more interesting in terms of the task at hand.  This day, which was a Sunday, I cruised around the shrimp pools with Eduardo pouring out good bacteria to balance out the bad bacteria that naturally flows in.  I’m not too sure of the technical details since my grasp of Spanish doesn’t quite extend to shrimp farming technology, but that’s the gist of what he said.  Aforementioned good bacteria actually looked and smelled more like tomato soup, and was stored in barrels next to the pools.  Eduardo then explained to me that we would transfer this bacteria to the canoe by siphoning it through a hose.  This made my day since I feel like the ability to siphon liquids could prove potentially useful somewhere down the road.

Life on the Farm

When I’m not busying earning my bread here on the farm, life is otherwise blissfully simple.  Aside from the access to wifi during the day in the main dormitory there are very few other technological distractions and I mostly spend my days lazily strolling around the grounds and working on my photography skills.  The opportunities to capture amazing sunsets and the shrimpmen tending to the various needs of the farm make it a worthwhile venture.  And now that I don’t have my best friend and professional photographer as my traveling companion all the time, I have to rely on myself for creative photos to visually document my experiences.

I believe somewhere in a previous post I also mentioned my slight obsession with going “rustic”.  I think this goes hand in hand with me wanting to develop survival skills and also not wanting to feel like I’m so sheltered.  I viewed flushing toilets by manually pouring water down them as a backpacking badge of honor and I was happy to continue the tradition here.  I also get to continue with my cold showers only now the ante has been upped and I often have to do so by candlelight (there’s no sense in showering in the morning as I’m heading to a stinky workplace to sweat and stink some more).  Though I have to admit, in this heat, the cold shower no longer feels like torture and the candle adds an ambiance of romance to an otherwise lackluster evening.  After my shower, it’s then just a tranquil evening of chatting with my roommates, two other volunteers who are studying marine biology, and doing a few chores before falling asleep to the sound of mosquitoes and random salsa songs that I can hear some of the shrimpmen playing in their dorms across the way.  As far as I’m concerned, this is shaping up to be a very good life indeed!

Categories: Ecuador, Travel, volunteering | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Gone Shrimpin’ – Introduction

As I briefly mentioned in a previous post, I’ve left Perú and moved on to Ecuador, where I plan to spend the next two months of my travels.  For the first month, I decided to try out something new and opted to volunteer on an organic shrimp farm!  I’m currently about two weeks behind on posts for this chapter of travels but I can already tell you that it’s been another great decision of mine, which I’m happy to say, seems to be a trend for me lately!

Why a Shrimp Farm?

Back in the planning phases for my world travels I looked into various volunteering opportunities as a way of keeping my mind occupied (assuming I got bored of this whole blogging business) and to discover new career possibilities that didn’t involve being in an office.  I discovered WWOOF amongst the travel resources from Briefcase to Backpack, which is a membership-based listing of organic farms that accept volunteers in exchange for free room and board.  I thought this would be great for many reasons:  I could hang out with locals and practice my Spanish, I could stretch my travel budget a little further and I could get in some much needed exercise with the more active workday.

My companions for the next month of the first day of fishing for me!

Furthermore, I also wanted to go to a farm out in the middle of nowhere because I needed to get away.  I know this sounds a bit bizarre since I’ve already quit my job and traveled thousands of miles away from home.  I mean, what more does one possibly need to get away from?  For me, this can be boiled down to five words, “men to whom I’m attracted”.  On a farm, I figured I’d be away from the backpacking scene and all of the temptations and drama that naturally accompany the trail of young single travelers, lest there should be others like me on the farm as well.  I figured though, this wasn’t a deal breaking risk.  The idea of being away from men though later becomes an extremely ironic point, but I’ll get to that in a later post.

How?

I originally started looking for farms in Argentina in hopes of finding an organic wine vineyard but didn’t have much luck.  I was finding that the majority of farms were vegetables (I guess that should have been obvious) and a lot of them were actually vegetarian and dry, two adjectives that do not sit well with me.  Later though, I happened upon a listing for a shrimp farm in Ecuador and was intrigued.  I obviously started envisioning myself as one of my favorite movie heroes, Forrest Gump, wrangling a bunch of shrimp during the day and feasting on them at night.  I was sold and put the wheels in motion.  Now a couple of months later here I am with an island full of nutty shrimpmen, stories to tell and of course, lots of shrimp ceviche!

Looking forward to spending my evenings here for the next month!

Categories: Ecuador, Personal Growth, Travel, volunteering | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

What Happens in Machu Pichu – Day 4

Today was our final day of the Jungle Trek and we would finally ascend up the final mountain to see the ancient ruins of Machu Pichu.  I was sad to see the fun times coming to an end but so relieved to be almost done with the hiking and early mornings.  Today was the worst, we had to wake up at 4am, only six hours after last closing the door on Alex and his apparent creepiness.  I’m really into sleep, so I wasn’t in the greatest mood to begin with waking up so early and I was getting less enthused about seeing the world famous Machu Pichu thinking about the 2,000 steps I would have to hike up just to see it.

View to the Top

The Long Walk Up

Needless to say I struggled all the way up the 2,000 steps it took to get to the entrance of Machu Pichu.  I arrived with the Argentinian girls and set my sights on finding a nice comfortable spot to plop myself for at least two more hours of sleep.  I was hoping to find an ancient little broom closet wherein I could crawl and waste away until some Japanese tourist found me thinking I was an Incan mummy.  No such luck.  We met up with the rest of the group and settled down for the two hour tour and history lesson about the ruins.  Figuring I could just Wikipedia all of the information later, I didn’t feel any guilt about falling asleep.  I was famished and freezing now – the morning dew, high altitudes and evaporating sweat made for an unpleasant freezing effect – so I lazily and thoughtlessly leaned on Home Alone and dozed off until it was time to move again.

At least this standard picture of Machu Pichu has fog in it!

I Need “Me” Time!

Crankiness was now fully starting to express itself in my demeanor and I was really yearning for my solitary broom closet at this point.  I joined the others for the cliché pictures and tried to be a good sport about hiking further along to see some bridge way off in the distance, but after someone suggested we hike another 40 minutes to the sungate I made a “Fuck this” gesture and stayed behind to rest a little bit.  After all, I was aching and tired and after all of that effort, I just wanted to sit down and enjoy the view of the damned city without constantly moving about the place.

I didn't feel like sitting up for my 'once in a lifetime' Machu Pichu picture...

I was also starting to get “group fatigue” at this point.  Given my solitary nature, I tend to have a time limit on how long I can amicably socialize and travel with a large group of people who aren’t close friends.  That time limit is about 3-4 days, after which point I become irritable and prone to bouts of either silence or sarcasm.  Now I can honestly say I liked everyone in my tour group, but at this point in the trek, I needed my space which I got to some extent after the hike out to that damn bridge.  15 minutes I spent relaxing on my little perch in front of the new wonder of the World and I was finally happy to see the famed image that Hiram Bingham discovered in 1911.  I contently exited the park and happily paid USD $9 to ride the bus back down to Aguas Calientes – I figured I had already done the strenuous part and walking down would only feel more uncomfortable to my sore legs.

Train Ride Back to Reality

Later that evening I took the train back to Cusco, stopping in Ollantaytambo and catching a bus the rest of the way back.  Everyone in the group had different train schedules for some reason so I was on my own once again, sitting back with a glazed over expression on my face trying to process all that occurred on the trip.

The best part about the trek to Machu Pichu was all about expectations.  I sat back in my cramped train seat and was amused at the fact that I figured this trek would be very leisurely and how I’d spend every night reading my book before heading to bed early to be up and ready for the early morning hikes.  It reminded me of how for better or worse, I’m grateful nothing in my life so far has turned out the way I expected; the unpredictability makes for a much more interesting existence.

Categories: Peru, Travel | Tags: , , , , , | 4 Comments

What Happens in Machu Pichu – Day 3

Yesterday may have been one of the most exciting and adventurous days of my life, but the universe quickly balanced out that high with today being one of the most awkward days of my life.  It all started with the morning wake-up call and continued all the way until I finally laid down to sleep.

Survivor: The Machu Pichu Edition

As I mentioned previously, I heard Alex yelling some nonsense late last night/early this morning that suggested he would not be in the most pleasant of moods upon eventually waking up for the day.  Right I was, as I was a bit confused when he woke everyone up about a half hour earlier than expected and with the announcement that there would be no ziplining today (ziplining was an optional activity to do in lieu of walking for three hours in the morning).  I began getting ready and preparing myself for the amazing amount of awkwardness that was about to ensue.

As we sat eating breakfast in mostly silence, Alex began with an impressively detailed account of all that happened last night and how he, as a professional, has decided that ziplining would be canceled because he wanted to follow the exact route the tour delineated.  This was a very convoluted point he was making so I won’t get into the details, but suffice it to say, he was basically cranky and probably hungover and wanted to punish the entire group for the actions of another.  I’m still not entirely sure if it’s just that he was ill practiced in conflict resolution or if he was trying to stage some strange psychological experiment where he turned half of the group against the other half.  I half expected Jeff Probst or some other reality show host to rock on up and tell us this was the start of our challenge – to see who makes it up Machu Pichu fully intact.

Regardless of what really happened in his room, I thought Alex was acting like a petulant child.  I’ve been woken up at some impressive hours in the past and I’ve gotten over it, partly because I’m sure I’ve been the culprit more than a few times in my life and partly because I think that there are worse options for being woken up in the middle of the night, such as being pissed upon.  As he continued the painfully long and awkward recount of last night’s events in English, I continued to sit back with my forehead in my left palm wiping down against my face as if to try and suppress the great urge I had to start laughing out loud (I tend to have a laughing response when I’m caught in the middle of an argument between other people and I find that laughing tends to piss both parties off, hence why I try to suppress the urge to giggle).

After the group stuck together and threatened mutiny against Alex, he eventually came to his senses and called off his bluff.  It was a tense half hour in a sweat hot restaurant, but we all moved on.  I spent the morning loafing around in a hammock and socializing with the Intrepid Trio while the others went ziplining.  Normally I would be tickled to dangle from a suspension line and whip around the forest, but I had already had a pretty amazing ziplining experience in Costa Rica and I was getting close to maxing out my budget for the month, so I decided to save this for another time.  Besides, I think ziplining is more fun when you’re actually in the canopy as opposed to just flying way above it.

Back on Track

The afternoon hike was rather languid and uneventful for the most part.  We walked along the train tracks all the way up to Aguas Calientes.  The scenery around us was beautiful, but the monotony of the train tracks coupled with the rain and the fact that my legs were turning into useless butter sticks were putting a damper my mood.  Plus the fact that effects of my hangover were starting to kick in was none too helpful either.

After three more long uncomfortable hours of hiking and one last uphill struggle, we finally made it to Aguas Calientes, our final stop before Machu Pichu and for me another mirage of civilization.  My eyes bugged out when I saw the 4-star hotels and abundance of restaurants, shops and other signs of developed settlements.  I never thought of myself as being such a prissy city girl, but the drool from my mouth at the sight of Visa/MasterCard stickers on storefronts was a sure sign I missed the pleasantries of my usual habitat.  Even though I was running low on my monthly budget, I still contemplated ditching crazy Alex and the group for some more luxurious digs in a gringa friendly hotel.  This later became quite an ironic thought.  I settled into the tour group hostel, took my much needed shower and set off exploring my gringa heaven.

Awkward Nightcaps

As I said before, today was a day of awkwardness and I was already emotionally and physically spent at this point in the trek.  I wanted nothing more than to go to sleep after dinner and mentally prepare for the early morning hike up to Machu Pichu.

As I was sitting in the lobby, checking a few e-mails before heading up to my room, Alex comes walking up with a contrary look on his face, half like he’s going to scold me and half like he’s going to apologize.  It was the latter.  He came to inform me that I would not be staying in this hostel because the tour group that I booked with actually booked me a different hotel, a much nicer hotel with a private bathroom.  Earlier during dinner there was some price discovery about what people paid for the tour and we found out that everyone went with different operators.  I was none too pleased to find out that I had paid much more than everyone else.  However, upon hearing that I would be in a nicer hotel I felt some sense of relief.  Yet I was kind of pissed off that I only found out with six hours left before I had to wake up for the next morning’s hike.

Alex helped me move my stuff to the hotel which wasn’t too far.  I contemplated taking another shower just to enjoy the hot water, but reasoned that sleep was a bigger priority at this point.  Just as I was about to lay down to sleep, I heard a knock at the door.  I figured it was the receptionist with my towel.  It wasn’t.  It was Alex with my towel.  Now he had a clearly defined look of apology and want.  He gave me the eyes as he explained how sorry he was about the mess with my hotel room and how he hopes I’m having a wonderful trek.  He paused and nervously stood in my doorway for about 30 seconds before commenting on how he understood how sore I must be from the hike and then proceeded to offer me a massage.  At this point in my life, I’ve become a master at disguising my “Are you fucking kidding me?” thoughts behind an innocent and dumb school girl expression for the sake of saving one’s ego and avoiding further awkwardness.  I let it go and urgently locked the door behind me.  I crash landed into bed and began processing the events of the last 24 hours before falling asleep with my last thought being, “…and I thought I wouldn’t have anything to write about.”

Categories: Humor, Peru, Travel | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

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